Posted by: martinworster | February 12, 2007

31. SURFING IS DIFFICULT

Foam wasn’t built in a day…still fumbling in the white frothy stuff…

Surfing is proving to be a difficult nut to crack. I thought I’d
pick it up quickly with my skateboarding and snowboarding
prowess. It’s nearly five months now and I still have problems
standing up. Having been fumbling around in the foamy whitewater
for some time now, I have nothing but admiration for the worlds
top surfers. Through empathy I can appreciate the skill required.
In fact, I think the worlds best surfers are the epitome of
athleticism; they are the worlds greatest athletes. I have no
doubt. They are stronger than wrestlers, more agile than
gymnasts, fitter than marathon runners and possess bigger
testicles than bull fighters. They are the matadors of the waves,
the true conquerors of mother nature.

Having experienced the scary power of three foot waves I can’t
even fathom what that would be like magnified by ten times or
more. I saw pictures of Shane Dorian at Teahupoo in Tahiti riding
a true giant where one wrong move and you will die. I might be
finding surfing a difficult nut to crack but at least I am not –
yet – cracking my nut in the process.

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